![]() ![]() The cover hides the screw heads later when reinstalled.Īs to wood inside, IF you have measured your replacements correctly, you'll have to pull the inside stop moulding off ( the strip of wood that keep the inside wood sash in place normally) to get the vinyl window in place.the vinyly window SHOULD be 3 1/4" deep >IF< you got the right type window and that just happens to be the thickness of two wood sashes, so your replacement will go out to the outside stop ( what holds the outer sash in place ) and you put the inside stop moulding back in place after you caulk around the window-to-old-wood-jamb point. ![]() The holes are located generally behind a cover at the bottom outside sash track, and the upper inside sash track. You said you have "replacement" windows that have a nailing flange.technically, that is a new construction ue vinyl replacements don't have a flange.and they also are already pre-drilled on the side jambs for screws. Seriously, don't use the "Great Stuff" type polyurathane foam or you'll bow your window to where it won't work if you're not REAL careful.they do make a latex foam ( called Door and Window foam) that doesn't expand as much and remains soft afterwards instead of getting rock hard like GreatStuff.or use the tried and true: strips of fiberglass insulation stuffed into gaps ( and don't overdo that either )īut let's go back to your original post a minute. (PSSSSST).Don't say "foam" to Lefty.you'll get him up on a soapbox ! ahahahahaha. ![]()
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